I have to admit that one thing I was dreading about this year in China was having my first Christmas away from home. Being away from my family and away from all the Christmas traditions we have made me feel odd. On top of that, Christmas in China isn't really a thing. It got to the middle of December and my life really lacked festive spirit. Strangely enough, everything in Tianjin seemed geared towards celebrating the festive period. Tall lit up trees popped up outside every shopping centre, restaurant menus filled with Christmas offers and coffee shops played Christmas song playlists on repeat. Despite all of that though, it just didn't feel genuine.
Instead of wallowing in sadness that Christmas this year wouldn't be what I was used to, I decided to embrace how different it would be by booking a trip to South Korea for a few days over Christmas. I was a little freaked out at the thought of waking up in a hostel on Christmas Day but I had a really great -if not a little alternative- Christmas in Seoul.
Feeling truly welcomed by the locals running Free Restaurant, Seoul
My flatmate Bethany and I had arrived in Seoul the day before some of our language assistant friends based in Guangzhou were due to arrive. We took the first evening easy and stuck close by to where we were staying by having dinner at a restaurant right underneath the hostel. We stumbled into Free restaurant, a place which had a very cosy, local vibe. For our first meal, we ordered a plate of cheese buldak to share, a Korean dish consisting of spiced chicken with melted cheese. It wouldn't be our last chicken and cheese based meal in Korea. In my opinion, Koreans really nail it when it comes to food because combination of the two is pretty glorious.
At one point, we were briefly interrupted by a Korean man who seemed to be asking if one of the chairs at our table was free. Later, he joined us and insisted on getting a round of beers for us both. Despite speaking in broken English to us, our new friend Hong-Jong turned out to be a very lovely and modest man. After giving us his business card, we discovered he was a senior manager at one of South Korea's leading banks, Wooribank. Often roping in some of the restaurant staff and some of his friends sitting at nearby tables to help him translate, Hong-Jong told us how much he loved both China and England but his job kept him too busy to give him time to travel.
Our new friend, Hong-Jong
Our first night in Seoul was great and both Bethany and I felt so welcomed by the locals. We even made it onto the wall of the restaurant and Hong-Jong gave us both signed polaroids to keep as something to remember him by. We enjoyed his company so much, we came back the following night where he held some modest birthday celebrations to celebrate turning 42 (although you'd never guess that was his age if you looked at him).
'Ever Life - 2015/12/23'
Early the following morning (Christmas Eve), Elijah, Owen and Sam arrived in Seoul after catching a 2am flight. We wasted no time and got stuck right into exploring Seoul. Of course, no exploring can be effectively done on an empty stomach, so it was time for more fried chicken and cheese.
That day, we wandered through some of the busy shopping streets, passing people offering free hugs and were generally bowled over by how perfect looking Korean locals appeared and how stylishly they dressed. Things felt a bit more Christmas-y after we paid a little visit to Myeongdong Cathedral where rehearsals of a dramatic nativity play took place. Later, we took a cable car up to the top of Namsan Park to get a closer look of Seoul Tower. Our timing was pretty perfect. Seeing Seoul from above at sunset made for some great views, which made the chilly weather worth staying out in.
Dreamy sunset through the trees
Embracing the selfie stick life at the top of Namsan Park (Photos courtesy of Beth)
The top of Namsam Park is perhaps one of the most romantic spots you can find in Seoul. Couples often head to Seoul Tower to secure love locks to fences and get selfies overlooking the panoramic views. Seeing all the lights of the city come up when the sun goes down, the whole experience is quite ideal for a date.
Love locks
Seoul city lights at night
On Christmas morning, we all made a trip to the Hello Kitty Cafe. Originally, the idea to go for breakfast was made as a joke but it soon turned into a real plan. We'd actually got a little lost trying to track it down but after some determination, we found it in all of its pink glory.
It was surreal to say the least. Never in a million years would I have imagined I'd be sitting in a cafe dedicated to Hello Kitty on Christmas morning but the Christmas coffee finished with Hello Kitty chocolate topping and the photo opportunities made it worth it.
Normally on Christmas Day, my standard routine involves waiting for my older siblings to come round, we open presents and then we head to my uncle's house for a big dinner with my extended family - aunts, uncles, cousins, the whole gang. This year, I had a very cultural Christmas. We went to a museum dedicated to the life of King Sejong, a Korean royal and scientific scholar. Later, we took a tour around Gyeongbokgung Palace with an English speaking guide who told us a lot about palace life, including the King's involvement with concubines. In the cold but crisp winter weather, exploring the palace was well worth it.
Palace Polaroids
Changing of the Palace guards
Rooftop ridges
Looking like a holiday card
In the evening, we wandered through the back streets of some night markets and enjoyed an alternative Christmas dinner of Korean BBQ (I have no regrets - I love Korean BBQ!). We ended the evening with some casual beers and it even snowed a little that night. Hooray for a white Christmas! Overall, it was a really nice way to spend Christmas because it was special in its own kind of way. Of course I missed spending quality time with my family but Christmas turned out to be a pretty good one anyway. I'm really grateful that everything in South Korea still remained open on Christmas day because I highly recommend a 'cultural Christmas' for anyone looking to switch up the way they celebrate.
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