Friday 22 July 2016

10 Reasons To Live in China One Day: #5

五。Let It Go

It's only now I'm back home that I realise (as cheesy as it sounds) how much I've changed in the past year. Not in that I'm a completely different person but that when it comes to being really organised and planning ahead, I'm far more relaxed about things and that's definitely down to living in China.

All my friends from university or even way before that will tell you, I'm definitely one of those types of people who seems to have their head screwed on, knows what they're doing, has all the details pinned down and is likely to have a plan B if all else fails (or so I'd like to think, anyway). In fact, it's something I've always secretly prided myself on. I love being the person in the group who is relied upon to keep things orderly and organised. It's not to say that this side of me has disappeared, but if there's one thing I've learnt from living in China, it's to let it go.

Road traffic on Yingkou Road, Tianjin (营口道)

China is a little crazy. There's no denying it. Simply crossing the road turns into a genuine issue of life or death. And you know that really typically British tendency to queue for things in an orderly manner? Yep. Not really a thing in China. It's also not uncommon to hear people really going for it when they hawk up a gob of spit, launch it just centimetres in front of your feet and carry on with their day like nothing ever happened. But for all of China's differences, you learn to just accept that these things you might consider dangerous, inconvenient or down right disgusting as a way of life and shrug it off repeating the mantra, "Just 'cos... China". If you don't embrace that it's ingrained in the culture, you'll struggle to accept life in China.

Another thing I've become really accustomed to is things changing at the very last minute. It happened all the time. I might be told the day before (or a week if I was lucky) that my lessons would be cancelled because there were exams going on, despite the fact that exams had been scheduled for weeks. As I said, for someone who likes to think of themselves as very organised and likes to plan ahead, this type of thing would initially bother me. But I learned to just go with the flow and became well versed in making impulsive, last minute plans rather than well thought out contingency plans as I might have done prior to living in China.

I'm not quite sure how but things in China, however crazy, just seem to work themselves out eventually and there's a kind of certainty in knowing that things are always quite uncertain. As a result, I've definitely become way more relaxed in my approach to planning. I know that there's not much point getting stressed out or angry if things don't quite go your way or turn out different to what you expected. Rather, you need to 'unexpect' the expected, let it go and just find a new way to deal with last minute changes. It's been quite a journey but once you embrace that it's simply a part of life in China, you can really see how amazing the country is and how it's developed in spite of all the chaos.


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Sunday 17 July 2016

Teaching English in China: Part One

Another thing this blog has lacked is mention of my experience teaching in China, which is pretty poor on my part considering it made up a significant part of my time when I wasn't off swanning around China. So where to begin?

一。Typical work week

On average, I worked around 16 hours a week teaching 20 different classes of students aged between 13-15 years old. I was one of the lucky ones. Before getting to China, I was told I could be teaching class sizes of up to 60 or 70 with varying degrees of English but I was fortunate enough to only have 20 students per class and only ended up teaching as many as 50 in the last few weeks of my final semester. Classes were spread across the working week, but often I would get Wednesdays off which was handy to have a little mid-week break to do whatever I wanted. I ended up having my weekly Chinese lessons on this day and it made for a good routine to study and practise until my evening classes. All in all, my teaching time table was pretty well scheduled which gave me a good amount of time to prepare my lessons, pursue other hobbies and not be too tired out by the end of the week.

二。Typical work day

If there's been anything that has made me appreciate my school life more, it's the ability to compare my school experience with that of a typical Chinese student. First classes began at 7:35am sharp and last classes finished at 5:15pm. At least two out of three of my working days began from first lessons and as much as I'd like to complain about such early starts, I never had to teach a full school day and was often finished by around 2pm in the afternoon.

Lessons lasted for 45 minutes with a ten minute break in between. Students had about three "breaks" during the day. Morning break, which began at 10:10 until 10:35, was dedicated to a flag raising ceremony on a Monday, and/ or morning exercise. You might have seen it on TV before, but this is when students launch into a synchronised exercise routine as a form of fitness. It wasn't uncommon for my students to return from morning break a little out of breath.

Lunch began around 11:20am for around an hour. It was strange at first to each lunch so much earlier than normal but considering the early starts, I was almost always really ravenous by this time so I welcomed early lunches. I'd often eat in the school canteen on working days. I was given a teachers meal card which was loaded with a monthly allowance and gave me meals for as little as 10元 (£1). The lunch offering changed on a daily basis and it was always a nice surprise not knowing what we might get on a given day. Here's an example of a school meal I got:

Fish/ Chopped courgette with chicken (?)/ Rice/ Mixed brocolli and cauliflower/ Potato smileys 

Potato-bloody-smileys! Of all things I didn't expect to see in China, classic school dinner potato smileys were not one of them! But needless to say, I was always chuffed whenever I walked into the canteen with this on the menu.

After lunch, the kids were always a little more energised which made teaching after such an early start a bit easier. At 3:05pm, students have noon break. For the most part, they were given actual rest time, but often, they'd have to do eye exercises which attempt to improve vision. Luckily, I never had to teach later than 3:05pm so my day was pretty much over by this point. I could return to my room, whack on an episode of Modern Family and unwind.

三。Some differences in education culture

As I said, I really came to appreciate my school life more after being able to compare it to what the average Chinese student has to endure. Breaks during the day was just the tip of the iceberg. I often felt sorry for my students that they didn't have the same opportunities to kick around a football for an hour like the boys I knew from school would during the lunch break, or just sit around with their best friends and just chat like I did at school.

If they weren't doing exercises or eating lunch, my students could most likely be found scribbling away at homework they weren't able to finish or mouthing to themselves passages they were told to memorise for examinations. For them, education did not stop when they left school. My students often told me that on average, they'd stay up until midnight to complete all the homework they had been given during the day. Even on weekends, they weren't given much time to relax and instead would be taking extra classes to get ahead (or to keep up) and get top scores in the class. It's a well-known stereotype that Chinese students are incredibly hard-working and from what I experienced of teaching in China, I can vouch for that. But admittedly, it was a little disheartening when some of my students would come up to me and express their disappointment in that they came only sixth best in the class and really beat themselves up about the silly mistakes they made out of stress and anxiety. I for one was incredibly proud of the vast majority of my students and how far they'd come in terms of oral English compared to when I first met them. But there's only so much you can say to console them.

The reality is that education is really competitive in China. Every student strives to be the best, not just for themselves but also for their parents and families. But with every student aiming for the same thing, it makes it much more difficult to shine and stand out. One thing that I really did like about my classes though was the sense of family. There isn't really such a thing as 'sets' or separating students based on ability in China. It's something that I believe makes a lot of difference in the way you can teach but the sense of family amongst each class means that each student helps to pull one another up when they're falling behind. There's a genuinely strong familial bond amongst students which is really heart-warming to observe and it's perhaps something that's not seen quite as much in the UK education culture. In spite of the competitive nature and need to highly achieve in China, there's still a sense of wanting to help each other out to ensure your family stays together and no man is left behind. Certainly, family is a strong value in Chinese culture and it can be seen in the classroom too.


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Monday 11 July 2016

10 Reasons To Live In China One Day: #4

四。Cure wanderlust


I can't promise this will be the last time I harp on about travelling in China in this past year, but here I am, at it again just one more time. I guess if there's definitely one thing that I've been so proud of in the last 12 months is the amount I've been able to explore the vast country that is China. And yet, I still feel like I've only scratched the surface! I've managed to tick off 18 different places within China, and there are still many places left on my list. I'd love to be able to say I've visited at least one place in each of China's provinces/ municipalities/ autonomous regions.

My impression is that when it comes to Asia, China doesn't rank too highly on people's travel list. Many opt to hop around the countries in South East Asia instead. With beaches, warm climate and incredible food, who could blame them? But China is somewhere I urge everyone to go and visit at least once in their life, and not just the famous destinations like Beijing or Shanghai. Whilst these places are amazing in their own right, other places a little less known in China are well worth visiting too.

Shanghai 上海/ Harbin 哈尔滨/ Kunming 昆明

In a country as big as China, there is bound to be something for everyone, whatever your interests are. If it's the glitzy city life you're after, you'll find that and more in Shanghai. If it's laid back beach vibes, Xiamen has just the thing. A bit more outdoorsy? Plenty of incredible mountain ranges all over China you can go and hike.

Sure, you can find all these kinds of things in almost every country in the world, but what makes China a bit more special is the context of the country. You won't find another place in the world which has the same population. The sheer size and vastness of China is something I still can't get my head around and with that, it just means there's literally so much to explore. The culture and history of China stretches so far back, everything is steeped in some kind of historicism and it can be tangibly felt in the surroundings. China is just... something else.

Shangri-la 香格里拉/ Guilin 桂林/ Beijing 北京/ Yunnan 云南

Another great thing about China is that it can be a great springboard into surrounding countries too. As well as cities within China, I've also been able to visit South Korea, Vietnam and Hong Kong this year too. But many of the friends I made this year also visited Taiwan, Thailand, Cambodia, Japan and more.

If you're someone who suffers from wanderlust, China could be the perfect cure. China has been completely different to any place I have ever experienced or travelled to and it's been amazing to compare it with other places in Asia or western countries in general. Travel-wise, China has so much to offer, but don't just take my word for it. You should go find out for yourself...



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Thursday 7 July 2016

10 Reasons To Live in China One Day: #3

三。It's Cheap

Maybe it's because I'm a Londoner but if there's been one thing I knew I'd miss about China, it's how cheap it is to live there. I've had one of the most incredible years living and working in the Middle Kingdom and have been afforded so many great opportunities to travel and explore a such a rich culture - but it couldn't be done had I have been on the same salary in the UK, even if it wasn't London.

Let me break it down.
- Average cost of one journey on the subway in Tianjin: 2元 (20p)
- Start rate of a taxi journey: 8元 (80p) with additional 1.7元 per km
- Average cost of a typical A to B taxi journey in Tianjin: 21元 (£2.10)
- Cost of a bowl of noodles: 18元 (£1.80)

I could go on, but it depresses me that I'm not dealing with these prices any more now I'm back in London. It genuinely hurts my soul every time I tap my oyster card...

As I've mentioned a lot in the blog, I've travelled a lot in China and beyond this past year. The prices for domestic flights are reasonable considering the distance covered across the vast country. Even then, if you fancy 'slumming it' for something cheaper, long distance buses or overnight trains are often even cheaper than flights. Even bullet trains are cheap (only 54元 to get from Tianjin to Beijing in a quick 30 minute bullet train - just a fiver to get to the capital!). It's really not hard to get around in China on a budget and it's because of this that I've been able to tick off quite a few places on my China list.

Pins of all the places I've visited in the last year

Of course, it's worth mentioning that the living costs for each city in China varies. Those who want to live a more 'western' lifestyle will also end up paying the price for products that you can find in your home country. Still, I believe I found the right balance between living like a local, as well as indulging myself every now and then with more western comforts when I felt like it. So long as you keep an eye on what you're spending and weigh up the pros and cons about shelling out a little more on things like western branded chocolate, milk or cheese, it's easy to live a very comfortable lifestyle in China and enjoy all it has to offer. I'm already missing so much about China and having paid £1.10 for a bottle of Ribeana at my local Sainsbury's today, I realise that the cost of living in China is definitely up there on the list...


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Wednesday 6 July 2016

10 Reasons To Live In China One Day: #2

二。Taste real China

If you think you love Chinese food now, then wait until you get to China and taste real authentic Chinese food. Everyone's got their own favourite local Chinese takeaway. You might even know what numbers to call out over the phone when you order your usual favourites on a Friday night - but the 'delicious' guilty treat that comes in a plastic tupperware box with some complimentary prawn crackers is far from the real deal. 

Hot pot set up (火锅) 

As a foreigner in China, it's not hard to come across a 'western' restaurant to eat all the things you're used to. Even I was prone to going for pizza every now and then when I wanted to change things up but for the most part, I ate Chinese food so as to integrate myself into the culture as much as possible. Over the course of the year, I've managed to visit many Chinese cities and one of the main things I attempt to do is to try THE must-eat thing. Without this goal, I wouldn't have tried some of the best food I've ever tasted or developed new favourite things to eat. RouJiaMo (肉夹馍) in Xi'an is genuinely one of my favourite things ever and I'm certainly going to miss being able to get it from a street vendor if I get a craving.

RouJiaMo (肉夹馍) in Xi'an 

One of the greatest things about Chinese cuisine is that it is so varied. Each province or city has their own speciality, and for the most popular types of food (noodles, dumplings, bao etc), there's still a lot of local variation. Take for example Tianjin, where I've been living for the past year. Tianjin specialises in 'snacks'; from fried dough twists to 'fried ear hole cakes'. The municipality is also famous across China for its 'Go Believe' baozi (a white bready bun, typically filled with meat). Tianjin also lays claim to a famous egg pancake based breakfast food called 'Jian Bing Guo Zi' (煎饼果子)- although I have come to find out that it's sold and eaten over much of China, but it does indeed taste a little different depending on where you are. But that's my point exactly. No matter where in China you are, you can be sure the typical cuisine has a local take on it, making it hard to resist sampling all food to discover its variation. 

Sharing food with newly made friends

The food culture in China is also centred around sharing food. It is common for families or groups of friends to cook or order many dishes to be shared amongst the entire table. I'm used to this style of eating at home but I don't think I ever truly appreciated the sociability of this kind of food culture until I came to China. Not to mention the fact that you get to try so much more than if you simply order one thing for yourself. It's a complete win-win situation for all!

Yak, mushroom and mint in Yunnan Province

Provincially, each place also has its own 'thing'. Whether it's the spiciness of Sichuan, the Peking duck of Beijing, the dim sum or morning tea of Guangdong or the yak based meals in Yunnan - there is simply so much to try and it's all delicious in its own way. For the more adventurous, China also serves some of the strangest foods I never thought I'd become so fond of. Personally, I've taken quite a liking to spicy duck neck but it does get even more odd with the likes of snake or the stomach of various other animals appearing on menus. 

Fried scorpion on sticks found in the snack streets of Beijing

All I know is my eyes have been opened to so much more in terms of Chinese food. I've always appreciated it. In fact, my Dad is a chef so the food I eat at home has always been top quality Chinese food but it has to be said, my Dad has to step up to the plate now I've discovered so much more about the taste of China. It's not all sweet and sour chicken or egg fried rice - there's a whole lot more to explore and China is the place to do it if you want to do it right!



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